the segway from summer into fall...

Sweet summer corn is a seasonal luxury that should never be taken for granted.  My friend Craig recently requested a recipe for corn chowder and I had to get on it before the season ends.  Thankfully the past few days have been chilly and gloomy, the perfect weather for a comforting bowl of chowda.

Before I begin I feel obligated to let you know that if you are accustomed to the "chowders" served at most average restaurants you are going to be disappointed. I don't load my chowder with roux and heavy cream, I allow the natural starches from the corn and new potatoes to do the dirty work for me.  For a luxurious touch I added a touch of heavy cream at the very end, but that is completely optional and highly unnecessary.  With that said, let's get cookin :o)

Ingredients:
4 large ears of Sweet Corn, kernels cut from the cob & two kernel-less cobs reserved & quartered. Keep 1/4 Cup of kernels handy, and hold the rest of them, covered, in the fridge.
2 ounces [about a 4 inch long piece] cured, Spanish Chorizo, diced. [You can substitute bacon, but the spice from the chorizo compliments the sweetness of the corn beautifully. The smoke & salt of the bacon will steal the spot light from the star of the show- the corn.]
2 small Leeks, white part only; cleaned and thinly sliced
1 small Carrot, finely chopped or grated
2 ribs of Celery [if you have giant celery, use one], finely chopped
1.25 lbs New Potatoes [Red Bliss or New potatoes. A starchy Russett, peeled is fine], medium dice
2 Bay Leaves
4-5 sprigs of fresh Thyme
7 Cups hot Water
1/4 Cup of Heavy Cream
Kosher Salt & Cracked Black Pepper, as needed

Now, before we start, lets briefly review the leek:

They resemble giant scallions, but are a sweeter, subtle member of the onion family. This recipe calls for the whites only, but you can reserve the dark green leaves for making stocks. It is not uncommon for there to be dirt or grit in the leeks, so always cut them in half and take a look.  These weren't too bad, so I just ran them under water, peeling back the layer to rinse out the dirt, if your leek is very sooty, cut in half [lengthwise], leaving the root intact, and soak- cut side down in a large bowl of water. The dirt will sink to the bottom.

Let's get the chowder started, shall we?

Process:
1. In a medium-large stock pot, begin to render the chorizo over medium heat.
2. Once the chorizo is crispy use a slotted spoon to remove the chorizo pieces from the pot [being careful to keep all of that flavorful fat in there!] and reserve for later. Add the leeks, bay leaves and thyme, along with a pinch of salt, to the pot; saute.
3. Once the leeks are softened, add the celery and carrot. Cook for 2-3 minutes and then pour in 7 Cups of hot water, the diced potatoes, 1/4 Cup kernels and quartered cobs. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.
4. Simmer for about 1.5 hours, and then taste. It will be bland because you  haven't seasoned yet, but you should be able to taste the flavors.  If the broth is aromatic and mildy flavorful, and your taters are very, very soft, remove the cobs, bay leaves, and any thyme twigs and season to taste with salt & pepper.
5.  Using an immersion blender, or carefully transfer to a standard blender, puree your soup. Now, you can either be very French about it and pass the pureed soup through a fine mesh sieve to remove any tiny pieces of potato skin or corn fiber, or you can trust me that you will be fine; after all, this is a chowda, not a bisque!
6. Return the soup to the pot and keep it hot over medium-low, add the reserved kernels, 1/4 Cup of cream and a pinch of salt. Simmer for a couple of minutes and serve with the reserved crispy chorizo.

 The lighting isn't doing the chowder justice; we haven't had sunlight in days!

This recipe will yield 4 entree sized portions or 6 small servings.

a side of Hash

I have been holding back sharing this recipe due to last week's extreme temperatures, but on a beautifully breezy Vermont summer's day like today, I think this Purple Kale, Baby Bliss & Chorizo Hash would pair well with a couple of poached eggs or a pan-crisped Halibut filet for a substantial, yet light, mid-week supper. Its also great for brunch.

This recipe yields 2-3 servings and can easily be adjusted to accommodate more.

You will need:
4 small palm-sized Baby Red Bliss Potatoes, medium dice
1 bunch Purple Kale [regular kale or swiss/rainbow chard may be substituted], wash & roughly chopped
4 cloves of Garlic, smashed & peeled
2 ounces [3 inch long cross section] dried, cured Spanish Chorizo, cut into small pieces
3 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1.5 tsp Apple Cider Vinegar
Salt & Pepper, as needed
1/2 Cup Water, just in case
2 ounces Manchego Cheese, finely grated [completely optional, but very delicious]

Process:

• Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. 
• In a medium bowl, combine the diced potatoes, garlic cloves & olive oil with a liberal pinch of salt and a couple of turns cracked black pepper and toss to coat.  Transfer to non-stick sheet pan or cookie sheet and spread in an even layer, making a modest attempt to leave some space between the potatoes so they can brown. Place in the oven, middle/top rack and cook for 12-15 minutes, or until potatoes are bronzed and slightly crispy.
• In the meantime, render the chorizo in a medium saute pan [to render: place meat in a cool/room temperature pan and bring both the pan and the meat to temperature on the stove simultaneously] over medium-low heat.
• Once the chorizo is slightly crisped and a significant amount of fat has been released into the pan [it will probably render out at least 1.5 Tbsp fat], add the kale [in batches if necessary] along with a pinch of salt & pepper; raise the heat to medium-high [about 7 out of 10]. Saute the kale with the chorizo, if the pan seems too dry or if you are having trouble wilting the greens, add a splash [eyeball a tablespoon or so] of water.
• Once the kale is just wilted down, add the vinegar and quickly toss to coat.  Taste & adjust the seasoning as desired and then fold in the roasted potatoes.
• Garnish with Manchego cheese, if desired... or use this hash to accompany a Manchego cheese omelette [::wipes drool from chin::].

In the interest of brunch, or dinnertime... or simply what to drink with this meal I would suggest a sparkling Rose`.  If you cannot find sparkling Rose` then mix 2/3 regular Rose` wine [or Riesling if you cannot find Rose` at all] with 1/3 Prosecco.

Where can I find chorizo...

Chorizo is typically located near the Soppresatta and Prosciutto, etc and other cured specialty meats; most gourmet supermarkets & specialty grocers should have it in stock.